Regardless of how smartly one thing works, the bicycle trade turns out made up our minds to reinvent it. Believe the short unencumber, an totally dependable part which lets you connect and unencumber a wheel in seconds that has now all however vanished from the efficiency bicycle, simplest to get replaced by way of the thru-axle…which for all sensible functions works the similar approach because the previous nut gadget that impressed Tullio to invent the short unencumber within the first position. Whew!
On the other hand, one usual that has so far resisted this “innovation”–or no less than endured to thrive within the face of it–is the common-or-garden English threaded backside bracket shell. Certain, there are all means of press-fit methods in the market nowadays, however other folks hate them, and so even a $13,000 S-Wanks comes with a standard threaded backside bracket:
See?
However whilst right-minded other folks know that the threaded English backside bracket shell used to be, is, and at all times will likely be the easiest way to connect a crank to a bicycle body, there are nonetheless more than a few bearing methods to choose between, every with its personal benefits and disadvantages. The “vintage” one makes use of sq. taper spindle, which may also be both be a part of a sealed cartridge gadget, or else it will probably run at the older free-ballin’ setup:
Both approach, it’s excellent as it’s dependable, it’s ubiquitous, and when you’re a tinkerer or kludger you’ll be able to mix’n’match tapers and lengths and the entire remainder of it to debris along with your chainline or “Q-factor,” the latter of which is vital to a few other folks, however which I’ve made up our minds I don’t even understand. The primary downside is that bearing set up generally is a bit time eating–free-ballers require more than a few equipment and want to be adjusted sparsely, and cartridge ones have recessed splines that may be just a little anxious. On best of that you simply most often desire a crank puller on best of no matter different bearing-related equipment are important on your specific bearing set-up, and in case your crank is under-tightened or over-tightened or put in and got rid of often you’ll be able to reduce to rubble the crank arm hollow, and doubtlessly destroy the crank.
I love sq. taper cranks–they paintings, backside brackets are reasonable, and extra importantly, they give the impression of being excellent on metal bicycles. On the other hand, from a purely sensible point of view, I don’t assume you’ll be able to beat the Shimano Hollowtech II gadget:
Sure, by the point Shimano presented it, the cranks themselves had turn into unsightly, and simplest were given uglier. (See above.) On the other hand, they’re extremely simple to put in and modify, they by no means make noise (except you don’t tighten the bearing cups or one thing, regardless that pulling the crank and snugging them is set a 5 minute task), and so far as I will be able to inform the bearings closing necessarily without end. If you need vintage appears to be like and/or the power to fine-tune your chainline, by way of all approach, cross with sq. taper. But when you need boneheaded simplicity that even a ham-fisted fool like me can’t appear to reduce to rubble, cross with the Hollowtech IIs.
After all, there also are different outboard bearing crank methods in the market, and whilst I’ve come throughout some that suck, I’ve additionally encountered some that paintings reasonably smartly. Most often, those that fall below the latter class paintings like Shimano, and use the similar spindle dimension and non-drive pinch bolt setup. (The DUB crank that got here on my Jones works otherwise from Shimano, but it surely has additionally been completely nice, and I’ve by no means had to take away or reinstall it…regardless that on account of that I don’t know if it’s as simple to paintings on because the Shimano gadget.)
Then there’s Campagnolo, and their “Extremely-Torque” gadget:
I consider when Shimano presented Hollowtech II; it appears they did so after a patent owned by way of this corporate expired, and having coveted the ones cranks in my adolescence I used to be predisposed to include the idea that on my street motorbike:
[Photo from here.]
Moreover, I noticed instantly how easy it used to be, and as any person with deficient mechanical abilities and an especially low tolerance for creaking and/or ticking backside brackets I discovered the design very promising.
In the meantime, Campagnolo used to be nonetheless the use of a sq. taper, and there used to be completely not anything flawed with it. I do know this as a result of I used to be the use of it on the time, and up to I preferred the glance of the Hollowtech II I used to be completely content material with my beautiful hidden-arm 10-speed File crank. Nonetheless, Shimano had pressured Campy’s hand. Additionally, sq. taper backside brackets are nearly totally invisible when put in, so no one may inform Campy’s used to be crabon!
[Photo from eBay. Why the Sharpie? Is it to show scale? Does anybody shopping for a bottom bracket not know how big they are? “I hope that’ll fit in the truck of my car!”]
When Campagnolo replied with Extremely-Torque I used to be horrified. Being Campy, they didn’t do an exterior bearing crank the straightforward approach; as an alternative, it gave the impression of they made it as difficult as conceivable. That bizarre joint within the heart specifically in reality freaked me out, however there used to be additionally a protecting clip and a wave washier, either one of which additionally bothered me, because it gave the impression of the gadget may well be liable to creating noise and play. My issues gave the look to be borne out, too, since once they’d been out awhile I’d steadily see other folks complaining about simply that, or even that Mavic portions man sells a shim package for this supposedly commonplace drawback. So I resolved to avoid it, as a result of like every uptight individual I have a tendency to reject issues out of hand.
Alas, destiny had different plans, and in 2019 my Litespeed got here to me with an Extremely-Torque crank. Between the weirdo spindle and the crabon I used to be able to switch it on the slightest provocation, however after all it grew to become out to be completely nice, so I temporarily made my peace with it. Sooner or later early on it did get started squeaking all through a rainy experience, so I took it aside and put some grease in there; in truth operating on it cured me of my fears for excellent, and it used to be completely quiet for the following 4 years. Then this previous Sunday I were given stuck in a heavy rain, and the day past I heard a faint chirping sound. So I ended and got rid of the chain from the chainring:
Sadly I didn’t have a Swiss Military Knife:
Nonetheless I persisted:
Spinning the crank, I showed the sound used to be coming from the ground bracket:
Appears like a whimpering pet.
As I say, in spite of being a slob, my tolerance for noisy backside brackets is reasonably low. So upon my go back I instantly set about remedying the placement, and I’m documenting it right here for someone in the market who want to know what’s happening within these items, even if there’s no scarcity of tutorial movies in the market made by way of individuals who in truth know what they’re doing, in addition to by way of Campagnolo themselves, who might or won’t know what they’re doing. Regardless, when you’re questioning how these items come aside and return in combination, I’m gonna let you know methods to do it. First, you should definitely have an Extremely-Torque crank. In case your crank is gorgeous, it’s no longer Extremely-Torque:
If it’s unsightly and it says “Extremely-Torque” on it then it’s indisputably Extremely-Torque:
If it’s unsightly and it doesn’t, it’s going to nonetheless be Extremely-Torque…regardless that it might be Energy-Torque, during which case God permit you to.
Anyway, whenever you’ve made up our minds it’s an Extremely-Torque, first you take away that protecting clip by way of pulling it out of the bearing cup with needle nostril pliers:
Right here it’s:
If there’s something Campy’s excellent at, it’s making stuff that calls for a number of tiny spare portions.
I do know other folks love Campagnolo as it’s rebuildable and there are spare portions, but it surely’s vital to take into account that Shimano doesn’t want rebuilding or spare portions. (Although all that is now moot, as they each want batteries. In 5 years they’ll every be judged solely by way of their apps.)
Subsequent, you undo the bolt that holds the spindle in combination:
All the time use a torque wrench, and consider when casting off a bolt that you need to torque it the entire approach right down to 0 or else it gained’t pop out:
It it’s at a torque of -1 N-m you’ve grew to become it too some distance.
After you get the bolt out it’s a easy topic of pulling the 2 halves aside:
But even so the protecting clip and the deeply recessed bolt it’s no longer in reality all that a lot more difficult than Shimano. On the other hand, the true distinction is that Shimano’s bearings are a part of the cup, while Extremely-Torque bearings live to tell the tale the crank, and if you want to exchange them they must be got rid of with a unique bearing puller from Vicenza or one thing:
Thankfully, those are nonetheless smoother than a marble countertop covered in olive oil, so I doubt I’ll have to fret about that anytime quickly. They’re additionally noticeably smoother than Shimano’s, regardless that I doubt that issues in follow. General, Shimano’s setup is so much more effective, regardless that I assume it’s slightly handy that at the Extremely-Torque you by no means want to trouble with casting off the cups. And sure, within the spirit of being rebuildable, Campagnolo means that you can switch the bearing and stay the cups, while Shimano treats all of it as a unmarried disposable unit. This would seem to figure out in Campagnolo’s desire, till you believe that the bearings on my own price far more than an entire Dura Ace backside bracket, and that’s no longer even together with the particular device. (Although in my case it doesn’t topic, as those bearings stay excellent as new.)
Right here’s the wave washing machine at the non-drive aspect:
It’s Campy spare section #841851871/1171/4181.
Additionally, on both sides, between the bearing and the crank itself, you’ll be able to see just a little rubbery seal:
I’m guessing that is most probably what was causing the whimpering pet noise, since there’s nonetheless a variety of grease in every single place else:
Sure, there’s just a little grit in there, however that simplest came about once I got rid of the crank.
Anyway, as soon as the whole thing used to be aside I wiped it down, re-greased it, and put some of these items at the rubber seals:
On reflection I most probably will have simply dripped some in there with out casting off the crank in any respect, however now and again it’s excellent to get in there and spot how issues are doing.
Then I put the whole thing again in combination the use of the right quantity of torque:
That zoomed-in photograph isn’t on your get advantages; I’ve formally reached the purpose at which I want to use my telephone as a magnifying glass no less than a number of occasions an afternoon, and it used to be the one approach I used to be ready to learn the numbers at the bolt.
I’m guessing the Extremely-Torque design is much less tolerant of body imperfections than the Shimano gadget, however it kind of feels completely satisfied in this motorbike, and general it’s lovely simple to reside with. Additionally, it’s smoother than Shimano in some way that doesn’t topic, whilst being quite extra difficult in some way that does–which is in the end what Campagnolo is all about.